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Currently the electric motors used in the cars run at the club are all based on the "540" generic standard. This basically defines the mechanical characteristics of the motor. The "electrical" characteristics can be confusing and set out below is some information which will hopefully help to understand that 'types' of motors available. Usually for a given type of car there are a number of different classes run. One of the factors which distinguishes the classes is usually the type of motor permitted, other factors include tyres and body shells. This information is not exhaustive for those wishing to obtain further information we recommend a visit to the BRCA website. There are essentially three 'classes' of motor;-
The reason for each of the classes is to ensure a level playing field in respect of the propulsion of the car. To expand on these;- Modified Motors These motors can have a variety of winds available and also the timing can be set by the user. Stock or Standard (27Turn) These motors have a fixed number of winds (27Turns), the armature must be marked, the timing is fixed, the cans use bushes rather than bearings. Super Stock (19Turn) These motors have a fixed number of winds (19Turn), the armature must be marked, the timing is fixed, the cans use bearings rather than bushes. The types appear to be well defined - why is there 'confusion'? There is no simple answer to this, but an example would be that you can get a 19 Turn Modified Motor which has variable timing. 19Turn is also the basis of the Super Stock Class which uses 19Turn motors but they must be fixed timing. It is therefore important to ensure that if you buy a motor for a particular class that it is suitable for that class. In this example simply asking for a 19Turn motor is inadequate. In order to help overcome the potential problems the BRCA provide a list of approved motors which is available from their website. The lists are updated as necessary so it is important that if you are competing in an event with motor controls that you ensure you have the correct motor. The other factor which can often cause 'problems' is that a motor may be available in the shops that meets the construction criteria but it is not on the list, and hence not permitted. The information provided on the BRCA website describes the process that the manufactures go through to get motors onto the list. Also remember that motors can be removed from the list! In summary to avoid problems always check the BRCA lists. However, if you are still unsure please do not hesitate to contact us by email. Stock Motor MaintenanceMost motors do not require any running in before installation into your car. The first thing to do is to lightly oil the bushes in the motor. You can buy specific oil from model shops, but I use normal 3 in 1 oil. Remember LIGHTLY oil the bushes – one drop on each bush is enough. Check that the brushes move freely in their housing. The motor can now be installed in your car. Gearing is extremely important. It not only affects the speed and acceleration of your car it has a direct affect on the life of your motor. Gear the motor incorrectly and it will be very hot after a race. It will cause the brushes and comm to wear very quickly thus shortening the life of the motor. Indoors I run a ratio of about 7.00 (consult the manual of your car for suggested ratios) this keeps my P2K2 reasonably cool and gives fantastic punch out of corners. After each run I usually clean the comm and brushes and very lightly oil the bushes. Use some motor cleaner applied to a cotton bud. Check the comm and especially the brushes for any discoloration. If there is excessive wear and/or discoloration on the brushes this is usually a sign that the motor is over-geared. It is a good idea to replace the brushes if this occurs. Check how hot the motor is after each race. If it is really hot and/or smelly, this is again a sign of over-gearing. Putting a slightly smaller pinion gear on may help. |
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© 2008 Chippenham Model Car Club |
