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This guide is structured in a Question and Answer type format for ease of
use.
What types of car can I race at the club ?
You can race any type of 1/10th or 1/12th scale electric car, either on or off
road. The main classes we support are Scale Saloons during the winter and
buggies during the summer.
What is the difference between the types of car ?
Off Road Buggies are based on the desert style racers seen in the USA, they are
designed for running over rough terrain and therefore have long extruding
suspension arms and large shock absorbers. They come in two guises, 2 wheel
drive (2wd) and 4 wheel drive (4wd). 2wd cars are generally rear wheel drive,
are cheaper to buy and easier to maintain than 4wd, but consequently it takes
more skill to drive one.
Scale Saloons are fast becoming the most popular form of racing in the UK. Most
Scale Saloons are 4 wheel drive with front and rear differentials. Scale Saloons
are designed for smooth tarmac/asphalt or carpet tracks that requires little
suspension movements, and they use scaled down versions of the full size Touring
Car bodyshells (Nissan Primera, Honda Accord etc.).
Please note these cars are normally supplied in kit form and without radio
equipment. The types of ready-to-run cars (sold in shops such as Tandy,
Woolworths etc.) are not really suitable for racing.
What type of kit should I buy ?
Are you planning to run your car at CMCC, or with a friend who already has an
R/C car ? If so, you may wish to get a similar kit so that you will both be
competitive with each other - for example it's no fun running a Buggy against a
Touring Car, as they are designed for different types of surface and racing. If
you are planning to race at CMCC, your options are fairly open. The best option
is to pop down and have at look to see what everyone else is using, set a
realistic budget and go for it !!!
How much do the kits cost ?
The basic, budget kits at the beginners end of the market cost around £80 and
are aimed at those just starting in the hobby. In contrast, the top of the range
racers with many hop-up parts can cost up to £250. There is a vast choice in
between - you pays your money and takes your choice as they say !!!
What do the kits come with ?
In general, most kits come with enough parts to build a 'rolling chassis'. Some
manufacturer's (such as Tamiya) include a motor and mechanical speed controller
in some of their kits. Some special tools are normally included. It pays to ask
what is included before you buy.
So I've got a kit, what else do I need ?
Firstly you will need the proper tools to assemble them, which will include a
selection of screwdrivers (Philips/cross head, flat head), pliers, hobby knife,
allen keys, nut spinners and cutters.
You will need the following items, in no order of importance:-
2 channel radio set with at least one servo (starting at
£40).
Electric motor, if not supplied in kit (from around £10)
Electronic Speed Controller, if not supplied in kit (from
around £30)
At least two Battery packs (from around £15 for pre-built
packs)
Battery Charger (from around £20)
12V Car Battery (to power charger)
What equipment should I buy ?
Personal preference, and largely determined by your budget. Ask around at the
club as to what others are using, and buy something similar.
Your choice of car (or chassis) is endless. All the major manufacturers
(Associated, Losi, Yokomo, Schumacher, Kyosho, Tamiya, HPI, Tenth Technology)
produce a good range of Touring Car kits to suit all budgets. It is worth buying
the best specification kit you can afford at the time, as you will then be less
likely to spend a great deal on hop-up parts. Other considerations are the
availability and price of spares, commonality of wheel fitments, belt or shaft
drive amongst many. There are lots of good value second hand cars around, but be
careful to check their condition before you buy.
A cheap AM radio (27MHz) will work fine when starting out. FM radios (40MHz) are
more reliable (prone to less radio interference) and have more features, but
cost more. The more expensive radios have features which help intermediate and
expert drivers, but only serve to confuse beginners. Radio's are definitely one
area where you get what you pay for, so shop carefully.
Standard servos supplied with your radio are fine for beginners. Once the servo
wears out or breaks, look at getting a better servo that is more suited to the
car you are running. There are a large number of 'performance' servos available,
so again listen to advice from shop owners and other racers and choose
carefully.
If your car came with a stock 540 motor, it really is the best place to start.
If you need to buy a motor, should your kit not have one, the choice is endless
and confusing. The best solution is to buy either a 27Turn or 19Turn Motor -
these are referred to as "Stock" and "Super Stock" respectively. More
information on motors is available on the < Motor Tips > page.
It is advisable that you buy two reasonably priced mid range battery packs for
starters, rather than one expensive whizzo pack. Look out for 1700 or 2000 mAh
packs, as they will be the most durable and give more than adequate run time.
There is little point in spending lots of money up front on the latest
technology (3000 and 3300 mAh) until you decide to upgrade, or take racing more
seriously, as the performance advantage really is marginal. As with everything,
the advice of shop owners and other racers is most valuable. More information on
batteries is available on the < Battery Tips > page.
Why don't you race Nitro kits ?
Electric kits are generally easier to operate, quieter and can be run indoors
!!! We are restricted with noise levels which precludes us from racing
Nitro cars. If you have a Nitro based car please check out our links page for
clubs who are able to run them.
How hard are the kits to assemble ?
It really depends on your ability to interpret drawings and photographs in the
Instruction Manual, your experience and how much time you can dedicate to
building the kit. Most experienced racers can build a kit in about 4 hours,
beginners may take much longer. If you are under 16, it is best to get an adult
to assist you.
Why aren't the bodyshells pre-painted ?
This again is down to personal preference - if everybody had the same coloured
bodyshell, it would be difficult to tell cars apart !!! If you want to paint
your bodyshell the same colour as that on the box, by all means do so. Take a
look at the links page at the manufacturers sites for more hints & tips on
painting bodyshells.
What kind of paint do I need ?
As most bodyshells are manufactured from Lexan, specialist paint that bonds to
the bodyshell is required to achieve the best finish. Paint is available in jars
and spray cans, but the best finishes result from using an airbrush or spray
can, rather than from brushing.
Most bodyshells must be painted on the inside, so that crashing and scraping the
body doesn't result in scraping away any paint. Some bodies use a clear
protective overspray film on the outside, so make sure you remove it before
applying the decals.
How fast do they go ?
The top speed of the car will ultimately depend on the motor and gear
combination used. Using a stock motor and kit gearing, a car is likely to reach
about 20 mph, whereas using a modified motor can allow you to reach speeds of
around 40 mph. The tight confines of our indoor track means that speeds are
probably limited to around 25 - 30 mph maximum.
How durable are the cars ? How much crashing can they
take ?
The plastic used in most kits is tough, pliable high-impact nylon that is
designed not to shatter under pressure, but with bend to absorb impacts. This
prevents most crashes from resulting in anything other than a scraped body. It
normally takes an extremely hard crash to actually break anything, and most
times you'll be pleasantly surprised to see your car continue after a big hit !
Why should I glue the tyres to the wheels, and how
should I do it ?
Simply to prevent the tyre rolling off the wheel during a race. Another benefit
is the additional amount of traction you gain as the wheel and tyre are bonded
as one entity.
To glue tyres onto wheels, firstly put the foam insert in the tyre and then fit
the tyre on the wheel. Seat the bead of the tyre all the way around the wheel on
both sides, then get the super glue (note, if you have a thin tip for the super
glue bottle, it's much easier to use). Use a finger or thumb to pull back part
of the tyre, exposing the bead, then put a small drop of glue in the opening.
Let the glue run along the bead, and quickly close the opening by seating the
tyre back to the wheel rim. Take care not to get any on your fingers, you may
wish to get some super glue de-bonder just in case it sticks to your skin.
Repeat the glue application around the entire rim, then set aside to dry. Repeat
the process on all your wheels & tyres, then repeat the entire process again for
the opposite side of the wheel & tyre.
What is and Why do I need a Personal Transponder?
A personal transponder is a device which can be fitted in the car permanently
in your car. It emits a signal which is unique to you. The Lap Counting
equipment is programmed to recognise your number when you are racing. At some
meetings it is also possible to get practice lap times recorded which all helps
setup your car.
The Personal Transponder eliminates the need to collect transponders and fit
them to the car for the duration of the race.
Personal transponders are required to be obtained and fitted by all members of
the club. Personal Transponders are available via the club as well as other
sources.
What level of maintenance is required ?
See < Maintenance Tips > page
What about looking after my batteries ?
See < Battery Tips > page.
How do I look after my motor ?
See < Motor Tips > page.
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